Monday, July 20, 2009

Back in the Ocean.....

Since this is a food blog I'm going to make the assumption that most of my readers are not surfers. The reason I'm bringing this up is because I feel like I need to preface this post with a little bit of background on what "A day in the Life of a Surfer" is really like. Surfing and the ocean are a huge part of my life. I have and I will continue to mention these topics frequently. Consider this your warning...
First of all....we ( surfers ) as a group love to complain. Then, to make matters worst we spend hours in our cars driving around looking, criticizing and then complaining about how crappy the surf is. Finally after wasting several $4 gallons of gas we give in and surf the least offensive wave we can find. So what is it that we are bitching about?? Well, it's too small ( or too big ), the winds onshore, the tide is too high, the coral reef is too shallow, it's too crowded, that crazy dude is out, it's too cold, the water is murky, it's too late in the day, the jelly fish are out, it's closing out.....you get my drift. I seriously catch myself doing this wayyyyy to much these days and I have to honestly say I hear others do it even more.
I remember when I first started surfing ( ummmm 16 yrs ago ) I could care less what the surf conditions were like. I just went out and did it...every single day....crappy or not. If there was a ripple out there, I was on it! I improved quickly and learned how to catch "any" kind of wave. In actuality, the bigger the waves are the easier it is to surf. When it's small and windy out you have to really work hard at it! My arms and abs got super strong because of this in the early days. Then, when the surf was big and clean I was ready for it!
I'd like to learn how to shed the "wave snob" attitude that I've been developing ( I mean seriously, it's not like I'm very good anyways). It's annoying and it's totally the opposite of what surfing is all about in the first place. Don't get me wrong....a lot of times I don't go out is because it's TOO big. I'm a major wuss but I do have some legit battle wounds ( umm like a fin in my eye!)However, you'll usually hear me complain that it's because the 80F water is too cold or something......
Anyways.....I surfed today and it was junkie out. There were head high sets coming in but they were closing out. The wind was on shore and the ocean looked "lumpy". Normally I would have said, "screw it" and parked my butt under a palm tree with an "US weekly" but instead I paddled out....I was only out there for about an hour but the ocean was warm, the sun was shining and I get to live in Hawaii so honestly that makes everyday a good day to surf. Aloha!
WORKOUT
40 min Elliptical Machine Level 7
200 AB crunches
3 sets of 20 bicep curls, 8 lbs
3 sets of 20 tricep overhead dips, 12 lbs
2 sets of 20 Ballet squats with 12 lbs
2 sets of 20 lunges
STRETCH
SURF 1 hour ( 6'4" Fish )
FOOD LOG ---- sorry for being so boring....I ate almost exactly what I ate yesterday
BREAKFAST- after the gym but before surfing "Purple Monster" ( frozen Blueberries, frozen Lahaina Mangoes, 1 frozen Banana, 1 cup Almond Milk, 1 Scoop "Amazing Grass", 2 packets of Stevia )
LUNCH-Salad ( Romaine ( Cos ), Cherry and Pears Tomatoes from my garden, Kalamata Olives, Goat Cheese, Lemon Juice ) Ak-Mak CrackerSNACK-Almonds, Salted Cashews and Dried MangoesDINNER-A repeat of LUNCH but I had Low Fat Wheat Thins instead.
PAU HANA-1 Glass of "Murphy Goode" Fume

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